Tenugui
Among the environmentalists of today, the tenugui is appreciated along with the furoshiki as an item of environmental benefit which has many uses.
The origin and history
A tenugui was originally a facecloth or hand towel made fashionable by the leading actors in the Kabuki theatre in the 18th century. Generations of Kabuki actors and their families designed their own family logo and kept the tradition of tenugui craft as the symbol of the prestigious art.
The tenugui was not only an essential item in the life of ordinary people for wiping hands but it was also used as a scarf to accessorise daily clothes as well as a solution for keeping their fashioned hair free from dust. People would normal carry two tenugui when going on a trip. It was used to make a sun shade, belt, handle to carry bags, emergency bandage and a bandana to stop sweat much like the warriors wore under their feudal helmets in battle. Now this can be still being seen in the practice of Kendo (Japanese fencing).
The tenugui was also used as a business card
It was common practice to distribute a tenugui as a substitute for a business card, in the case of occasions such as the New Year in early part of the SHOWA era (1926-1989). People from various occupations such as doctors, grocers, fishmongers and tofu makers distributed there own original Japanese towel from one shop to another or to regular customers. Artists of traditional professions such as Kabuki actors, comic story tellers and Japanese dancers, would use the tenugui as a substituted for a business card. In addition when they become renowned or named as the successor to the head of their school of Art, the tenugui was given as a gift or souvenir.
Varieties of tenugui
Size Originally the Tenugui did not have a size, in the EDO period (1603-18670), Cotton sales man would carry the rolls of fabric and cut it length at the customers request in front of them. Today however it’s fixed with the average length about 90-92cm, also available 98-100cm for the taller person. Width is in sizes, 34cm to 38cm.
Material
The Tenugui used to be made from linen in the past, then in the Edo-period, cotton was imported and cotton became the common fabric for use. The texture of the fabric varies from fine to loose weave depending on the type of thread thickness. Fabric with a loose weave is well ventilated and is quick to dry so that it is more suitable for use as a towel. Fabric with a fine weave is suitable for sewing two fabrics together for making things.
Dyeing
The most typical dyeing process of Tenugui are called CHUSEN and NASSEN.
Chusen
The method of dyeing has been inherited from the MEIJI era (1868-1912) and has been appointed as a Japanese traditional craft. A stencil is placed on the fabric, and then some paste is printed on it. The stencil is taken off, then the fabric is folded in half, and the process is repeated. All the work is by hand. This process enables the fabric to be dyed on both the right side and the reverse side. When all the paste has been applied to the fabric, dyes are poured over it. This is then washed out, the excess paste and dye is left to dry and be cut to the size and finish.
Nassen
This is the process of putting stencil on a fabric, then pouring dye directly onto it. This process is suitable for dyeing small designs and in lots of colors and it can express delicate pictures beautifully. This method keeps the color well because of the process after dyeing fixes it.
"Kamawanu" Tenugui
Famous kabuki actor's original tenugui. Literaly translated as "I'm not bothered".